There it that big smile. That soft very kissable mouth. We never talked about the almost kiss we had that Kim messed up.

“Well ok lets see…hmmm…what I like. I like being alone out there. Just the waves…that splashing sound of the water. It’s unlike any feeling in the world. Your so at peace centered. I don’t know. As for big wave riding there are a few places on earth….but I find Hawaii to have the best waves. Waves the size of buildings. You have to ride out there to get over your fear. You just have to. The water is cold harsh and unforgiving. You wipe out and it hurts. You think your almost out of a pipe and then the wave just bottoms out on you…and your face first on the reef. See this scar…”

“Yeah wow…”

I show her the scar from when I bottomed out at the Rip Curl Invitational. It’s a jagged scar on my shoulder from crashing into a reef. She seems impressed.

“Yeah that was a wake up call. I was on run for a half hour just hot-dogging. I must have caught 10 or 15 waves in that span. Really showing everyone up. Then like I said the bottom just wasn’t there…man that hurt like a motherfucker. But then I went on this shoot….a….documentary in South Africa. And there was this beach and no footprints where on it. It was like being on the edge of the earth. On one side of  the cliff the Atlantic Ocean on the other the Indian Ocean. Where were we…  damn I cant remember…?”

“Cape Town. I saw that documentary you where great.”

“Thanks……..There is nothing I don’t like about surfing. I almost never got into it.”

“Really…?” She says as she sits on the grass. She took her shades off since we where under the tree. Her eyes today  are bright and green like Spanish olives. I shake me head wanting to go talking, but not remembering where I was…

“Yeah…my mom didn’t want me going into that…marry a rich man is the line she gave me. Well I cut school all the time went to the beach and learned the hard way. No, no one wanted to take me serious. I didn’t have a wet suit and you know the water in L.A is colder than hell.”